Wednesday, March 30, 2005

Suave move

In the last post, I was lukewarm to the Marcato Soave. So I thought I would try again. Last night I had the Anselmi San Vincenzo 2003, for two dollars more than the Marcato. Anselmi no longer calls his wines “Soave” but that is essentially what this is. And it is a delightful bargain. The scent is mainly lemon, but with a soft quality (is this what they mean by “lemon custard?”) There are also light floral overtones, clover perhaps. The taste is dry but not biting, with definite mineral notes. The Italian word “soave” is often translated “suave,” which implies something a little too slick for this fresh and charming drink – “gentle” seems better. It went beautifully with some stir-fried scallops from the Butcher’s Block.

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